The coconut sprout, or as I like to call it, the coconut truffle; a more befitting name for this rare delicacy, is the tender shoot of the coconut. Much like there’s no telling which oyster holds a precious pearl, one cannot guess which coconut hides this exotic treasure. Unless, of course, the sprout has grown into a shoot and broken out of the tough shell. Even in that case, one cannot predict at what stage of development the sprout is. Often, one cracks open the nut to the disappointing discovery that the sprout is only a tiny, pea-sized node. Every time I crack a coconut I am secretly hoping and desperately praying for a sprouted one.
So, purely by chance when I found a good-sized coconut truffle, I resisted the temptation to gobble it down as is and saved it to be used in a recipe. Now, the coconut truffle is a delicate ingredient. The basal node or stalk tastes like the most clean, concentrated, pure essence of coconut. The bulb with an intricate network of raised venation on it’s surface has a more subtle and delicate flavour with a spongy, velvety texture and the lightness of spun wool. The most appealing feature though, is the funky, mildly acidic, musty umami aftertaste reminiscent of sweet palm toddy.
Any cooking will rob it of its sublime flavour and destroy the ethereal texture. Having struck gold, I did not want to rush with things. The idea had sprouted and I decided to nurture the ‘sprout’ and wait for it to blossom.
The next food memory came peeping from amidst magnanimous coconut palms that surround our ancestral home in Murdeshwar. The name Murdeshwar has it’s origin in mythology as one of the places where a piece of the Shivlinga landed. The Murdeshwar Devasthan (Temple) sits atop a picturesque hill which extends into the vast Arabian sea. Before the tourism boom hit, Murdeshwar was a quiet coastal village with pristine, virgin beaches.
I was no older than seven or eight. We were visiting family in Murdeshwar. One evening, my dad took us out for a walk by the beach. We ended the stroll by hiking up the hill and sat on the edge overlooking the rocky cliff. While the other kids got busy collecting pebbles to build castles out of or for simply throwing them in the sea below, my Dad exclaimed and pointed out at something on the rugged shore.
Realising I was the only one paying attention and showing interest, he stood behind me and pointed to what was a Godzilla of a crab on a giant boulder. It had brilliant red claws and shimmering, granite black shell. It stubbornly held on to the rock as the crashing waves threatened to wash it down into the dark abyss below. In the brief window that it got when the water retreated and before the next towering way came crashing down, the crab quickly covered some ground inching closer to its destination. Then I saw another one on the adjoining rock. Then one more, making it’s way through the crevices. I spent the rest of the evening spotting crabs while Dad kept count. Besides the spectacular setting, what’s vivid in my mind is Dad’s beaming smile at seeing his child connect with this world in such an intimate and organic manner. A world he had to leave behind but which still lived in him. I knew I had to celebrate this memory and Crab was going to be the hero of the dish.
On a casual visit to the local market, I stumbled upon the final core ingredient; water chestnuts. I had seen vendors with baskets of this neatly arranged strange-looking, seasonal aquatic vegetable, but this was the first time I sampled one and was convinced beyond doubt that this crunchy nut had to feature in the dish. The search had ended and all that remained was to put the dish together.
I made an ‘Essence of Crab’ Velouté enriched with coconut cream, served with a fresh handmade pasta component in the form of crab meat and water chestnut tortellini sprinkled with finely chopped chives.
The light, oceany flavours need a grounding element. Thinly sliced crispy chip of homemade caraway seed baguette provided a textural contrast with earthy notes. Torched pineapple brought some tropical fruity flavours that resonate beautifully with the sweetness of the coconut while adding a mystical smoky profile. Slivers of celery stalk provide a fragrant peppery sharpness. All of these with dainty dill leaves and briney capers made for a stellar line up of garnishes. The delicate, cottony coconut truffle gave wings to the whole plating.
The result was rather impressive. With classic techniques extended and applied to familiar flavours to weave a dish around some special ingredients and warm memories.
What follows is the recipe for the ‘Essence of Crab’ and Water Chestnut Velouté.
Serves : 5-6
Preparation Time : 1 Hour
Cooking Time : 20 Mins
Ingredients :
For the Crab Stock
Legs of 4 mud crabs (washed, scrubbed clean and cracked to extract flavour)
Celery Stalks 2 (Roughly chopped)
Carrot 1 (Roughly Diced)
Onion 1 (Roughly Diced)
Fresh/Dried Bay Leaves 2
Black Peppercorns 1 Tsp
Sweet/Unsalted Butter 1 Tbsp
Fennel (Roughly Chopped) 1 large petal
Making the Crab Stock
- Melt the butter in a deep stock pot.
- Add the chopped vegetables and sweat on a low flame without colouring.
- After the mirepoix softens, add the peppercorns and bay leaves and sauté for a while.
- Add the crab legs and saute till they turn a deep reddish orange.
- Add about a litre and half of cold water. Enough to cover the ingredients and bring to a boil.
- Once the water boils, turn it to a low simmer and cook for 30-45 minutes.
- Keep skimming any impurities that may rise to the surface.
- Pass through a sieve lined with a muslin cloth to get a clear, flavourful crab stock.
For the Velouté
Finely Chopped Garlic 1 tsp
Finely Chopped Shallots/ White Onions 2 (Small)
Sweet/Unsalted Butter 1 1/2 Tbsp
Water Chestnut Flour 1 Tbsp
Coconut Cream ½ Cup
Thyme 3-4 Sprigs
White Pepper Powder 1/2 Tsp
Salt for seasoning
Making the Velouté Soup
- Melt the butter in a sauce pan.
- Add the minced garlic and briefly sauté on a low flame.
- Add the finely chopped shallots followed by the thyme and sweat without colouring.
- Once softened, add the water chestnut flour and sauté till in releases a nutty aroma and takes on a golden colour.
- You have the blond roux infused with garlic and shallots. This forms the base of the velouté.
- Pour in the crab stock (approximately 1 litre) and bring to a boil.
- Once it boils, turn to a low simmer and cook for 10 minutes.
- Strain the liquid through a fine sieve. Gently press to extract flavour. Discard the aromats and the herb. These have served their purpose.
- Reheat the strained soup base and bring to boil.
- Add the coconut cream and stir to mix well.
- Cook briefly while stirring. Do not boil.
- Season with salt and flavour with freshly ground white pepper powder.
For the Garnish
- Crab Meat 1 Cup.
- Water Chestnuts (small dice) ½ Cup.
- Baguette croutons (small cubes).
- Finely chopped chives.
- Small dices of charred pineapple.
- Slivers of celery stalk.
- Capers.
Tips and Tricks
- The ‘Essence of Crab’ comes from a well-made crab stock. Although the process for making one is pretty simple and straightforward, it requires time and good ingredients. The velouté should taste like a mouthful of sea with the sweetness of crab. The final result is largely dependent on the stock. So, please give it the patience and attention it deserves and you will be amply rewarded with flavour.
- For the garnish, just spoon some crab meat, finely diced tender water chestnuts, add some charred cubes of pineapple and croutons for texture with the other suggested garnishes. These are just a few I used. You could go as creative or simple with the garnishes as you desire. Herb oils, chilli oil, walnuts, scallions, julienne of bell peppers, lime/orange zest or simply a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and even crispy julienne of ginger are some other ideas. Since the velouté is delicate and subtle in character, the only care to be taken is that the garnishes should preferably be dainty, complimentary in flavour and not overpowering.
- This base recipe for a velouté can be used with other seafood or even white meat. If you like, wine could be added after sweating the mirepoix for the stock. You would have to bring it to a boil and cook out the alcohol before adding the water.
- You could go classic and use heavy cream instead of the coconut cream. The coconut keeps it light and pairs brilliantly with the crab meat and other tropical components I have used.
- Feel free to experiment with different flours and starches to make the blond roux.
- Clean the mud crabs thoroughly. They are called mud crabs for a reason. You may have to scrub them under running water to get rid of stubborn grime.
- Using unsalted butter gives you more control over the seasoning.
The Missing Drumstick 